Important Letter - Head of Pakistan Mountaineering Federation
Mr Homayoun Bakhtiari - General Secretary
Arash Mountain Club, Tehran, Iran
Dear brother Homayoun, Assalam O Elaikum,
We are extremely shocked and distressed on the tragedy that has befallen on our brothers from Iranian mountaineering community. On 16th July it was gratifying to learn that Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba Jarahi were successful in reaching the Broad Peak summit after three day’s gruelling and hazardous traverse of the difficult Western rocky face above Camp III (7,000 metres), South of the normal route. It was a commendable achievement by these young Iranian mountaineers to establish this new difficult route after earlier attempts, and successfully hoisting Iranian flag on Broad Peak summit.
It was unfortunate that achieving this mountaineering feat at altitude above 7,500 metres took its toll on their energies, strength and endurance. They got disoriented and weakened by their ordeal to such an extent that they could not descend to Camp III after their historical accomplishment. This is a big tragedy in the contemporary history of mountaineering.
I may mention that all possible was done to reach out to them by all concerned here in Pakistan. I was intimated about their SOS message in the evening of 16th July and it was good that two extremely fit and good acclimatised high altitude porters started their climb on Broad Peak the same evening for search and rescue under arrangements of the Adventure Tour Pakistan, the tour operator concerned. These two reached Camp III by 18th July evening and were able to climb above Camp III on 19th July. As per their statement they searched all the area up to just below the summit but did not find anyone.
On 19th July upon learning of telephonic contact by one stranded member with home base in Iran, helicopter rescue flight was arranged for Sunday 20th July. Mr Thomas Lammle, a German mountaineer cum rescuer volunteered for a sling drop as high as possible provided the stranded mountaineers are located through the helicopter search. The helicopter with Mr Thomas flew upto near the altitude of 7,500 metres and thorough search of the area was made with binoculars, but of no avail. This is when the rescue attempts were called off by the ACP after discussing with the tour operator.
However, on insistence by Iranian Embassy officials and after tracing out location from the Thuraya call made on 19th July, another helicopter flight was undertaken on 23rd July with Mr Thomas and Iranian Embassy officials on board which, however failed to yield positive results due to high clouds with decreased visibility. After this flight, the rescue has finally been abandoned with the consent of Iranian Embassy officials. You are aware of the hazards of any rescue at high altitude, and it is best to let Allah Almighty take care of the deceased.
On behalf of all members of Alpine Club of Pakistan and on my own behalf I take this opportunity to express our deepest and heartfelt condolences to Arash Mountain Club as we share grief over the tragic loss of these brothers and comrade mountaineers. May Allah Bless their soul in eternal peace in the Heavens and give their families, kith and kin strength to shoulder their irreparable loss, with courage.
Ameen. Please convey our heartfelt condolences and sorrow to all members of the Arash Mountain Club and the bereaved families. Our thoughts and prayer will remain with them ever.
With best regards
Sincerely Yours
Manzoor Hussain - President
