Mr Homayoun Bakhtiari - General Secretary
Arash Mountain Club, Tehran,
Iran
Dear brother
Homayoun, Assalam
O Elaikum,
We are extremely shocked and
distressed on the tragedy that has befallen on our
brothers from Iranian mountaineering community. On 16th July it was gratifying to learn that Aidin Bozorgi, Pouya Keivan and Mojtaba
Jarahi were successful in reaching the Broad Peak summit
after three day’s gruelling and hazardous traverse of the difficult
Western rocky face above Camp III (7,000 metres), South of the normal route. It was a commendable achievement by these young
Iranian mountaineers to establish this new difficult route
after earlier attempts, and successfully hoisting Iranian
flag on Broad Peak summit.
It was unfortunate that
achieving this mountaineering feat at altitude above 7,500
metres took its toll on their energies, strength and endurance. They got disoriented and weakened by their ordeal to such an
extent that they could not descend to Camp III after their historical
accomplishment. This is a big tragedy in the contemporary history of
mountaineering.
I may mention that all
possible was done to reach out to them by all concerned here in Pakistan. I was
intimated about their SOS message in the evening of 16th July and it was good that two
extremely fit and good acclimatised high altitude porters started their climb
on Broad Peak the same evening for search and rescue under arrangements of the
Adventure Tour Pakistan, the tour operator concerned. These two reached Camp
III by 18th July evening and were able to
climb above Camp III on 19th
July. As per their statement
they searched all the area up to just below the summit but did not find anyone.
On 19th July upon learning
of telephonic contact by one stranded member with home base in Iran, helicopter
rescue flight was arranged for Sunday 20th July. Mr Thomas
Lammle, a German mountaineer cum rescuer volunteered for a sling drop as high
as possible provided the stranded mountaineers are located through the helicopter
search. The helicopter with Mr Thomas flew upto near the altitude of 7,500
metres and thorough search of the area was made with binoculars, but of no avail.
This is when the rescue attempts were called off by the ACP after discussing with
the tour operator.
However, on insistence by Iranian Embassy
officials and after tracing out location from the Thuraya call made on 19th July, another helicopter flight was undertaken on 23rd July with Mr Thomas and Iranian Embassy officials on board which,
however failed to yield positive results due to high clouds with decreased visibility.
After this flight, the rescue has finally been abandoned with the consent of Iranian
Embassy officials. You are aware of the hazards of any rescue at high altitude,
and it is best to let Allah Almighty take care of the deceased.
On behalf of all members of Alpine Club
of Pakistan and on my own behalf I take this opportunity to express our deepest
and heartfelt condolences to Arash Mountain Club as we share grief over the
tragic loss of these brothers
and comrade mountaineers.
May Allah Bless their soul in eternal peace in the Heavens and give their
families, kith and kin strength to shoulder their irreparable loss, with
courage.
Ameen. Please convey our heartfelt condolences
and sorrow
to all members of the Arash Mountain Club and the bereaved families.
Our thoughts and prayer will remain with them ever.
With best regards
Sincerely Yours
Manzoor Hussain - President
Photo Ref. 2: Scott Powrie
Photo Ref. 1 & 3: National MCF of Pakistan
Ref.: Kooh News Website - 1392.05.07 - www.kolakchal.ir
